In an industry that takes pride in direct trade, it’s surprising how hard it is to define that term. When I was starting out in this industry, I have to admit being inspired by the buzzword.
There’s a chance I took it too literally.
That’s why the entire LULO menu comes from people I met on their farms, before the whole idea came to fruition. And it really all started with Finca Alcatraz.
High atop a steeply inclined valley ridge of the Southwestern Andes range of Colombia lies Finca Alcatraz, home of Doña Yuely and Don Wilfredo.
It’s just outside the town of Oporapa, in the southern reaches of the department of Huila. This department is responsible for the highest production of coffee in the country, and in Colombia, that is no small feat. The region also boasts immense recognition for it’s high quality Arabica coffees, with the green-buyer hotspots of Pitalito and San Agustin not far away.
When the steep, cloud-covered hills of the farm come into view, the reasoning behind the name becomes apparent. The inclined ridges and amphitheatre-like sections of the farm are planted with Red and Yellow Caturra, Gesha and Red and Pink Bourbon varieties that mingle with plenty of shade-giving trees. The combination of the incline, shade trees, cloud-cover and high altitude make for exceptionally slow cherry maturation resulting in exceptionally complex coffees.
The microclimate, as key as it is, isn’t the only thing that contributes to those complex coffees. There are a few things that make this farm stand out.
The first is the cherry-duct system. To ensure a safe and efficient harvest, Don Wilfredo has constructed a network of ducts throughout the fields in order to transport freshly picked cherry directly to the solar-powered wet mill, which itself is beautifully designed and meticulously run.
Gravity does a lot of work every harvest, from the fields to the mill. The system is beautifully adapted to its place and purpose, and helps keep the constant flow of coffee well under control.
Another aspect of the farm that is crucial for Don Wilfredo’s understanding and evaluation of his product is his fully-equipped cupping lab.
It’s such a priviledge to be shown the value of (a) coffee on the farm, by the grower of said coffee. This priviledge actually became a driving factor in the sourcing ethos of LULO - one based in respecting producer agency.
From my very first visit (pre-LULO) to the farm in 2018, when we cupped about seven different day lots of his always-amazing washed Caturra, to the most recent one this past January ‘23, where we cupped multiple varieties, processed and volumes, this room has always been a huge source of knowledge and awe for me in my coffee journey.
Don Wilfredo approaches his profession with a natural, relaxed tenacity and attention to detail and it shows in just about everything he does.
Finca Alcatraz has been a key figure of LULO’s offerings and there’s only more to come. I’m stoked to announce two new gems from this outstanding farm in southern Huila: one washed and one natural Caturra variety. Both are super clean and juicy, and just exemplary showings of the famous terroir from which they come.
Head to the webshop for 15% off all Finca Alcatraz coffees! Just use the code ALCATRAZ at checkout.
Thanks for reading :)
- Kev