LULAZO #7
Delagua + EL Diviso
Coffees from Delagua have always been an important part of the LULO repertoire. I’ve been working closely with this amazing project as a member of their marketing team before I began LULO, and their coffees have made a name for themselves since day one.
The project is designed to save water use and contamination by cutting it out of post-harvest processing completely. On top of that, they work to give recognition to small-holder producers with difficulty accessing the specialty market through impeccable traceability and above-market rates for their product.
The flavors found in their coffee are profoundly sweet and juicy. Their dedication to naturals (and some honeys!) has resulted in the perfection of their craft. It’s not uncommon to have a castillo variety of theirs flaunt a fruity and floral vibrancy like no other. Flavors of strawberry, grape, guava, orange blossom, sweet caramels and chocolates are to be expected, sometimes in the same cup.
So where is this coffee, you might ask? It’s been a while since one has appeared on the menu, and I am super stoked to say that it’s making a return this week. So let’s dive in and find out why these coffees are just so dang special!
La Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is a massive mountain range that juts up alongside the Caribbean coast of Colombia, containing the world's highest peak closest to the ocean. It’s disconnected from the Andes, and there’s a lot that makes it unique.
Because of the vast and remote nature of the mountain range, coffees from Delagua are often as complex to source as they are in the cup. These coffees are always the product of immense trust and teamwork. A quick breakdown of how it works:
Small-holders in La Sierra produce the coffee.
Delagua works with the producers during the harvest to ensure the ripest cherries are selected. Then the cherries are floated for quality and purchased at above-market rates onsite.
The Delagua team then places the cherry into small tanks to ferment with as little oxygen as possible, and loads them onto trucks.
Once loaded, the tanks are transported down the mountain to a complex of drying beds just outside the city of Santa Marta. This is right by the ocean and the natural (or honey) processed coffees do very well with the dry heat and cool breeze.
Once dried and rested, the coffee is sent off to Bogota to be dry-milled and exported by the Equation team.
As you can see, it truly takes a village. Having had the privilege of visiting these pals not once but twice in the last two years, I can definitely confirm - this is a monumental undertaking. It takes 2+ hours on a moto to get to most places where Delagua sources from. The rainy season, which takes place during harvest, can sweep away roads and communities, or at least make the commute 12+ hours. The trucks often have to go down the mountainside at night to avoid extreme temperatures. There is instability in the region and a history of community displacement due to armed conflict.
But there’s something in these coffees, and these people, that make it all worth the struggle. And there’s no better example than Jefferson Navarro.
Jefferson Navarro is a young producer, just 25 years old. His farm, El Diviso sits tucked into his fathers farm, on a ridge overlooking the Caribbean Sea. At 1650 masl, his 1.5 hectare farm is kept quite cool by a consistent ocean breeze and decent cloud cover. His crop is 100% Castillo variety and he is just getting a taste of managing his own operation.
When he works with Delagua, he learns about the importance of cherry selection and technique. He also gains access to a specialty market that is normally absent in his entire region, let alone his vereda (community). Delagua assumes all transport costs and helps Jefferson manage cash flow and drying infrastructure. He still washes some of his coffee and sells it to the local coop, but is excited to work with Delagua more in the coming years.
It’s amazing to see innovative projects like Delagua working with producers like Jefferson. When I visited the farm in 2022, I found Jefferson in the fields, picking away while listening to some music and whistling. He was happy to see us and shared how stoked he was to be continuing his father’s legacy. I’d say with that lulo juice and all of those pups, how could you not be??
Jefferson’s Castillo is live on the webshop for next week’s roast. It’s showing exceptionally well in the cup, with a bright and elegant vibe that brings kiwi, pomegranate, pistachio, lime, roses, and simple syrup to mind.
Use the code DELAGUA at checkout for 15% off Jefferson’s castillo and find out what I’m talking about!
As always, thanks for reading and supporting this little roastery!
Much love
- Kev